Seoul

Seoul – Cold Weather, Warm Food, and Christmas Lights

(Seoul in winter is brutally cold, yet somehow incredibly warm through its food, people, and traditions)

I visited Seoul during Christmas season, and it was the coldest weather I've ever experienced.

The moment I stepped outside Incheon Airport, I felt the cold immediately. My ears hurt. My hands went numb. Coming from California, I wasn't prepared for temperatures below freezing. For most of the trip, I found myself taking taxis simply to avoid spending too much time outside.

Oddly enough, the freezing weather made everything else better.

The street food tasted better. The coffee shops felt cozier. Every warm meal felt earned.
 

Le Méridien Seoul at Myeongdong

I stayed at Le Méridien Seoul at Myeongdong, which had just opened a month earlier. The location is difficult to beat – right between the shopping streets and the night market.

Most evenings ended with a walk through Myeongdong's food stalls.

My favorite? Fish cake skewers (Eomuk).

Standing in the cold while holding a cup of hot fish cake broth became a nightly ritual. Simple, inexpensive, and somehow one of my strongest memories from Seoul.

The neighborhood is also packed with cafés, and some of my favorite moments from the trip were simply warming up inside a coffee shop while watching the city go by.

Christmas at Lotte World

Visiting during Christmas gave Seoul a completely different atmosphere.

Lotte World was filled with holiday decorations, lights, performances, and families enjoying the season together. There were winter-themed activities, ice attractions, and enough festive energy to make even adults feel like kids again.

It was one of the most cheerful places we visited during the trip.

Nami Island & Snowboarding at Elysian Gangchon

One of the best day trips from Seoul is Nami Island.

After a short ferry ride, you're greeted by a charming little island town lined with beautiful walking paths and seasonal scenery. Even in winter, it feels peaceful and inviting.

A short distance away is Elysian Gangchon Ski, where we spent the afternoon snowboarding.

As beginners, we spent more time falling than riding, but it was still one of the most memorable days of the trip. There's something satisfying about embracing the cold rather than hiding from it.

N Seoul Tower & Love Locks

No visit to Seoul feels complete without visiting Namsan Park and N Seoul Tower.

We took the cable car up the mountain and joined thousands of visitors admiring the famous love locks.

Every railing, fence, and structure seemed covered with locks left behind by couples from around the world. Looking across the city from above while surrounded by thousands of stories felt surprisingly romantic.

Fried Chicken, Beer & Korean Drinking Culture

One evening, I met up with a longtime friend who lives in Seoul.

He took us to one of his favorite fried chicken restaurants, and it quickly became one of my favorite meals of the trip.

Crispy fried chicken, cold beer, good company.

He also showed us several Korean drinking tricks involving beer glasses, chopsticks, and techniques I can no longer remember. Whatever magic was involved, it seemed to make the table more lively and everyone laugh a little harder.

The food was great. The company made it even better.

Gyeongbokgung Palace & Bukchon Hanok Village

For a change of pace, we spent a day exploring Seoul's historical side.

Gyeongbokgung Palace offers a glimpse into Korea's royal past, while Bukchon Hanok Village preserves traditional Korean homes tucked between modern neighborhoods.

Walking through Bukchon feels like stepping into another era, where old Seoul quietly coexists with the city's modern skyline.

Gwangjang Market

If there is one food destination I would return to immediately, it would be Gwangjang Market.

Many food markets require research. You need to know which stalls are famous and which ones to avoid.

Not Gwangjang.

There is no such thing as hit or miss here – only hit.

Even a random stall can serve something memorable.

My personal favorites:

• Beef tartare (Yukhoe)

• Makgeolli (Korean rice wine)

• Raw octopus (Sannakji)

The beef tartare stall became an instant favorite. Fresh beef, egg yolk, sesame oil, and simple seasoning done exceptionally well.

Pair it with a bowl of makgeolli, and you have one of Seoul's most iconic food experiences.

The raw octopus stall was equally memorable. It's not for everyone, but trying it for the first time is part of the adventure.

✨ Why Seoul Works

Seoul surprised me.

I expected great food, efficient transportation, and vibrant neighborhoods. What I didn't expect was how much the winter season would shape the experience.

The cold was intense, but it made every hot meal taste better, every coffee shop feel cozier, and every indoor gathering more memorable.

For me, Seoul wasn't just about landmarks or attractions. It was about fish cake skewers on a freezing night, laughing over fried chicken and beer with friends, warming up inside a café, and discovering that some cities are best experienced when the temperature drops below zero.